An epic cycling and sailing tour around the IJsselmeer: My adventure with the Elizabeth

Julius Gräler is CEO of tour operator Kootstra Rad- und Schiffsreisen (for information in English: TravelyDays) and likes to use Bikemap to supply his guests with bike routes. For this month’s Bike Story he agreed to share an unforgettable voyage around the Dutch IJsselmeer, or Lake IJssel, with us! But don’t take our word for it – read for yourself…

It was a sunny Saturday morning in Amsterdam when I boarded the three-masted clipper Elizabeth, full of anticipation. The majestic sailing boat seemed to whisper stories of centuries past as well as the new adventures which awaited me…

🚴 Route length: 154 – 205 km in total

⛰️ Elevation: Mostly flat! Difficulty level 1 (on a scale of 1=easy to 5=challenging)

🚲 Road conditions: As almost anywhere in Holland the routes are easy to ride. Cycle along paved roads, bike paths and roads with low traffic. The tours take you through the green polder landscape, in historical towns and along the water: IJsselmeer, Markermeer, Frisian lakes and the landscape of Waterland with its canals feature along your cycle routes.

☀️ Weather: July; 22°/13° – mostly sunny, with brief showers, somewhat windy.

🗓️ Duration: 8 days

⛵️ The boat: The tour group consists of 20-32 people. Everyone sleeps in cabins on board, and the bikes are transported on deck at night. You can bring your own bike, or rent a bike or e-bike. Guests who wish to support the crew with sailing duties are welcome to, but it is entirely optional.

Day 1: Amsterdam – Monnickendam

The first day brought an immediate sense of calm. After check-in and a friendly welcome by the ship’s crew, the Elizabeth set off for the first time as we motored to Monnickendam. I stowed away my luggage in my cozy cabin and decided to explore the town.

The evening sun gave the historic harbor town a golden tinge while I walked through the cobblestoned streets and absorbed the peaceful atmosphere. Historic buildings and picturesque canals felt magical in the light. After my walk, I enjoyed a dinner of local specialities on board and rounded off the evening with a glass of wine on deck, star gazing.

Day 2: Monnickendam – Volendam – Hoorn

The next morning I fueled up with a delicious breakfast before mounting my bike and cycling through the polderland. The route took me to a traditional cheesemaker’s and a wooden clog workshop, where I could experience both of these iconic Dutch crafts up close. The scent of fresh cheese and the sound of woodworking filled the air.

On I went across old dykes, past green pastures and charming windmills until I reached the UNESCO World Heritage site Beemster-Polderland. This fascinating landscape here evolved from the draining of a lake. I found its vastness and the harmonious connection of nature with man-made engineering deeply impressive.

Arriving in Volendam, I parked my bike and continued exploring this lively harbor town on foot. Colorful fishermen’s houses and traditional boats seemed to take me back in time. In the afternoon I boarded the Elizabeth to sail for Hoorn. Sailing on the IJsselmeer was one of the highlights of the trip, and I savored the wind in my face and the view across the water.

Hoorn has the rich history of a trade city. The splendid houses, well maintained historic buildings and charming streets made for a perfect evening walk.

Day 3: Hoorn – Enkhuizen – Urk

The third day took me through green hamlets and idyllic villages to Enkhuizen, a city with a similar merchants’ background. Historic buildings along canals spoke of the Golden Age of The Dutch East India Company.

In the afternoon we set our sails east to cross the IJsselmeer. The wind filled the sails and I savored the feeling of freedom as we headed towards the picturesque town of Urk. I volunteered to assist the crew and learned ancient sailing techniques that have been used on these ships for centuries.

In Urk I explored the lives of the fishermen who built their houses tightly packed on small hills to be safe from floods. On the fresh ocean breeze I could smell the sea. The day ended with a delicious dinner on board of the Elizabeth, rocking gently in the harbor.

Day 4: Urk – Vollenhove

Today’s cycling adventure took me along the former island Shokland, now a fascinating UNESCO World Heritage site. This calm polder landscape seemed to stretch to the horizon until I reached Vollenhove, another charming fishing village.

I cycled along beautiful paths, enjoying the peace and quiet of nature. Schokland, once an island in Zuiderzee, now reclaimed from the water, has become a symbol of the struggle for land in the Netherlands. A small museum tells the moving history of the region and its people.

In Vollenhove I found the ruins of old castles and beautiful manors, remnants of its prosperous past. I soaked in the atmosphere of this charming town during a dinner in one of the cozy restaurants on the market square before retiring for the night in my cabin.

Day 5: Vollenhove – Giethoorn

Our next destination was national park Weerribben-Wieden, a paradise for nature lovers. Narrow paths lead through the fascinating flora and fauna of these wetlands, and I was able to spot rare birds such as the kingfisher and the marsh harrier from the saddle of my bike. The route took me deep into the heart of this national park, where it was incredibly peaceful – perfect for bird watching and taking photographs. I passed through Kalenberg, a village only accessible by boat as recently as the 1950s.

The Elizabeth waited for us at the end of the day in Giethoorn, also known as the “Venice of the North”. The town with its reed-thatched roofs mirrored in the water, and small boats silently passed through the canals. I enjoyed a meal in one of the local restaurants and went for a long walk that evening.

Day 6: Giethoorn – Lelystad

A relaxing day at sea brought us to Lelystad. I spent the day on deck, enjoying the sea breeze and the gentle rocking of the waves. The IJsselmeer seemed endless and the sun sparkled on the waves as far as the eye could see.

Upon arriving in Lelystad I explored the modern city which was founded on reclaimed land in 1967. The highlight of the day was the Captain’s Dinner, a festive meal where all guests on board had the chance to share stories of the trip and celebrate newly formed friendships.

Day 7: Lelystad – Blocq van Kuffeler – Amsterdam

On a visit to the Batavia shipyard in Lelystad, where historical ships are recreated, I got a fascinating glimpse into the history of seafaring.

The final cycling tour of the trip took me through the nature reserve Oostvaardersplassen, a paradise for birdwatchers and nature lovers. The route meandered through woodlands and grass meadows, and I was able to see rare birds such as white-tailed eagles and cormorants, and red deer and wild horses in their natural habitat.

In the afternoon, the Elizabeth awaited me one last time in the small harbor of Oostvaardersdiep, and we set sail back to Amsterdam. Returning across the Ijsselmeer was a worthy finale of the trip, and I enjoyed my last hours on board while the sun set slowly on the horizon.

That evening in Amsterdam was a wonderful opportunity to explore the famous canals, historic buildings and lively streets of the Dutch capital. During the last dinner together on board the Elizabeth, I bade farewell to all my fellow passengers before retiring to my cabin for a good night’s sleep.

I disembarked the ship the next morning with countless memories and newly formed friendships. This tour was more than just a holiday; it was an epic journey of discovery with both natural and historical highlights, following the traces of old seafarers and experiencing new adventures.

You’ll find all the bike routes on this tour in my Bikemap profile.

We asked Julius what makes Holland the perfect cycling destination:

Holland is the perfect cycling destination to me because I love the freedom of cycling through charming flat landscapes while experiencing its diverse culture. The excellent bicycle infrastructure and bike-friendly atmosphere make every tour a relaxed and safe experience. I especially love going past picturesque towns, iconic windmills and fields of tulips in bloom. In the Netherlands, cycling doesn’t feel like a means of transport, but like a wonderful way of discovering the beauties of the landscape and the world around you.

Hungry for more?

Kootstra Rad- und Schiffsreisen offers many other incredible bike and sailing tours. For English, check out their tours on their international partner site TravelyDays.
Or discover more spectacular routes in the Netherlands on Bikemap!